Feature – Poseidon’s Wrath

Yi Chao Foong on the first ascent of the Cape Pillar Trident’s final prong, 44 years after Mendelt Tillema and his merry men climbed the first two prongs WORDS: Yi Chao Foong, IMAGES: As credited 10th December, 2016 I stare at my feet, ignoring the drizzling rain as I focus my centre of gravity over a shallow toe jam my trembling right foot is in. In my peripheral vision I spy my two RPs behind a flake that looks unlikely to…

Feature – A Rescue that Wasn’t

Matt Farrell gets into trouble in the mountains of Pakistan WORDS & IMAGES: Mat Farrell I wake up in a bed. I haven’t slept in one in a month… two months? My fingertips are swollen, split and stiff. My feet a mass of blisters. My lips burnt and tender, but I’m otherwise fine. Sergiu is more or less the same. I still woke with the sun at 5.30am. I can’t be in bad condition then, although I feel that I ought…

Birthdays & Barking Seals & Sun & Saunas & Stuck Ropes

Editor’s note to issue 21 of Vertical Life. Download the issue here. Climbing is full of things relative. Linking two moves on your project could be heralded as great success for you, whereas your mate falling off on the last move on the flash of the same problem could be an utter failure for her. Adventure is relative – a cakewalk for you is an epic for someone else, bigness is relative, easiness too. And so is the cock up. Getting your…

Perfecto Bloc Cage Match

  Cherry Picking or On the Beach – which is the Grampians’ best V13? We asked our panel of bouldering experts, David Mason, Adam Watson and Niky Ceria, all of whom have done both, to give us their reasoned opinion. WORDS & IMAGES: As credited We humans are weighers and assessors. We see contrast and difference and our minds are calibrated to compare. This with that, one with the other, Granny Smith vs Pink Lady, Aliens or C3s, was Stalin…

Bonking

Amanda Cossey teaches you how to fuel for multipitching by remembering a time when she got it all wrong WORDS: Amanda Cossey, IMAGE: Tom O’Halloran I have always loved mulitpitch trad climbing. The scary bits, the suffering, planning the rack to take, food and drink rations, timing of pitches and the approach to the route are all awesome. Echo Crack (163m, four pitch, grade 25, trad classic in the Blue Mountains) had for a long time been high on my…

Profile – Louise Shepherd

  Chelsea Brunckhorst takes a look at one of the best climbers Australia has ever produced and finds as much as her legendary strength it was her short attention span that made her excel at onsighting. WORDS Chelsea Brunckhorst IMAGES As credited Onsighting isn’t a lost art, but somewhere along the quest for difficulty, redpointing opened the doors to ‘the impossible’. While the latter has a pull of its own, the enchantment of onsighting – a beguiling route, a compelling…

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