Perfecto Bloc Cage Match

  Cherry Picking or On the Beach – which is the Grampians’ best V13? We asked our panel of bouldering experts, David Mason, Adam Watson and Niky Ceria, all of whom have done both, to give us their reasoned opinion. WORDS & IMAGES: As credited We humans are weighers and assessors. We see contrast and difference and our minds are calibrated to compare. This with that, one with the other, Granny Smith vs Pink Lady, Aliens or C3s, was Stalin…

Bonking

Amanda Cossey teaches you how to fuel for multipitching by remembering a time when she got it all wrong WORDS: Amanda Cossey, IMAGE: Tom O’Halloran I have always loved mulitpitch trad climbing. The scary bits, the suffering, planning the rack to take, food and drink rations, timing of pitches and the approach to the route are all awesome. Echo Crack (163m, four pitch, grade 25, trad classic in the Blue Mountains) had for a long time been high on my…

Profile – Louise Shepherd

  Chelsea Brunckhorst takes a look at one of the best climbers Australia has ever produced and finds as much as her legendary strength it was her short attention span that made her excel at onsighting. WORDS Chelsea Brunckhorst IMAGES As credited Onsighting isn’t a lost art, but somewhere along the quest for difficulty, redpointing opened the doors to ‘the impossible’. While the latter has a pull of its own, the enchantment of onsighting – a beguiling route, a compelling…

Mind and Muscle Training

Dr Ashlee Hendy opens your mind to a holistic model of training Imagine yourself bearing down on that last crux move of your project. Your feet pop off and your fingers start to slide. The rock feels coarse as it slowly grates under your fingertips. The wind blows and you hear your last draw clink just below your feet. The gentle burn in your forearms tempts you to drop off once again, but instead you crimp down and fight. You…

Climb like a Girl

Jess Kate Davis looks at gender and climbing In a small, stuffy, testosterone- and chalk-filled gym I pull onto the red plastic crimper problem, steel myself, make a move and fall off. Ready for some problem solving, I briefly contemplate the possible ways I reckon I could do the moves before I’m interrupted. ‘You should put your foot there.’  Hmmph. Moving away from the source of the interruption, I head to another problem only for another all-knowing man to tell…

RP: the Story Behind the Initials

Ross Taylor talks to Roland Pauligk RP. The initials are iconic. For climbers they conjure up all kinds of memories: tiny brass wires sitting new on your rack, shiny and angular and coated in a light sheen of oil; fiddling a bolt plate over a rusty old carrot; contemplating a runout above the small comforts of a green number three RP, its scratched, dull head buried deep in a crack. Memories comprised of a strange mixture of pleasure, fear and…

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