Undeserved

Editor’s note to issue 20 of Vertical Life. Download the issue here. 0.0062% chance. That is what I gave myself. Not great odds. I was trying a route that I had been trying on and off for a few years. One shot here, one there six months later, one again a year after that. I hadn’t been climbing much. I hadn’t been to a gym in months. 0.0062% chance of ticking it. That’s about the same odds of hitting the jackpot on…

Bonking

Amanda Cossey teaches you how to fuel for multipitching by remembering a time when she got it all wrong WORDS: Amanda Cossey, IMAGE: Tom O’Halloran I have always loved mulitpitch trad climbing. The scary bits, the suffering, planning the rack to take, food and drink rations, timing of pitches and the approach to the route are all awesome. Echo Crack (163m, four pitch, grade 25, trad classic in the Blue Mountains) had for a long time been high on my…

Awesome Woodys – an interview with Ross Ferguson

In the second of our series of profiles of Australian manufacturers of climbing gear, we speak to Ross Ferguson of Awesome Woodys, a Brisbane-based company that produces portable fingerboards much beloved by climbers. Can you tell us a little about yourself? I’m a Brisbane boy, born and bred. Climber, new router, crag hunter, obsessive trainer and, more recently, trail runner. I like working with timber and my mind is often in overdrive thinking about design, engineering or the function of crazy…

Profile – Louise Shepherd

  Chelsea Brunckhorst takes a look at one of the best climbers Australia has ever produced and finds as much as her legendary strength it was her short attention span that made her excel at onsighting. WORDS Chelsea Brunckhorst IMAGES As credited Onsighting isn’t a lost art, but somewhere along the quest for difficulty, redpointing opened the doors to ‘the impossible’. While the latter has a pull of its own, the enchantment of onsighting – a beguiling route, a compelling…

Mind and Muscle Training

Dr Ashlee Hendy opens your mind to a holistic model of training Imagine yourself bearing down on that last crux move of your project. Your feet pop off and your fingers start to slide. The rock feels coarse as it slowly grates under your fingertips. The wind blows and you hear your last draw clink just below your feet. The gentle burn in your forearms tempts you to drop off once again, but instead you crimp down and fight. You…

Climb like a Girl

Jess Kate Davis looks at gender and climbing In a small, stuffy, testosterone- and chalk-filled gym I pull onto the red plastic crimper problem, steel myself, make a move and fall off. Ready for some problem solving, I briefly contemplate the possible ways I reckon I could do the moves before I’m interrupted. ‘You should put your foot there.’  Hmmph. Moving away from the source of the interruption, I head to another problem only for another all-knowing man to tell…

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