Profile – Louise Shepherd

  Chelsea Brunckhorst takes a look at one of the best climbers Australia has ever produced and finds as much as her legendary strength it was her short attention span that made her excel at onsighting. WORDS Chelsea Brunckhorst IMAGES As credited Onsighting isn’t a lost art, but somewhere along the quest for difficulty, redpointing opened the doors to ‘the impossible’. While the latter has a pull of its own, the enchantment of onsighting – a beguiling route, a compelling…

Mind and Muscle Training

Dr Ashlee Hendy opens your mind to a holistic model of training Imagine yourself bearing down on that last crux move of your project. Your feet pop off and your fingers start to slide. The rock feels coarse as it slowly grates under your fingertips. The wind blows and you hear your last draw clink just below your feet. The gentle burn in your forearms tempts you to drop off once again, but instead you crimp down and fight. You…

Climb like a Girl

Jess Kate Davis looks at gender and climbing In a small, stuffy, testosterone- and chalk-filled gym I pull onto the red plastic crimper problem, steel myself, make a move and fall off. Ready for some problem solving, I briefly contemplate the possible ways I reckon I could do the moves before I’m interrupted. ‘You should put your foot there.’  Hmmph. Moving away from the source of the interruption, I head to another problem only for another all-knowing man to tell…

Review – The Lappnor Project

Just how bleak can a film about adding a new grade to bouldering be? Everybody knows that Nalle sent a 9A/V17 – The Burden of Dreams. And, naturally, there is a film about it. The thing is, though, that this is not like other bouldering films. It is a grim doco about persistence through the emptiness of solitude. It’s a movie about an individual’s frustration in which blips of progress illuminate a stuttering path through a quiet expanse of bad weather…

Concept Climbing – An interview with Pat Klein

As part of a new series on Australian producers of climbing-related gear, we speak to Pat Klein, owner of Concept Climbing, a new Melbourne-based company that produces training products, primarily fingerboards. Can you tell us a little about yourself? I’m from Melbourne, Australia. I love fun adventure sports, being out and active with friends is pretty much what it’s all about! I’m a bit of nerd, I love reading up and studying anything to do with exercise physiology, especially related…

Angie Scarth-Johnson: Climbing Her Way

Angie Scarth-Johnson is an Australian rock climber based in the Blue Mountains, NSW. At just 12 years old, Angie has been climbing for five years and continues to push herself and the boundaries of the sport. She has accomplished incredible feats in the climbing world, becoming the youngest person to climb a grade 31 at age nine. Since then, in a steady progression, she has climbed grade 32 at age ten and grade 33 at age eleven. She balances her…

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