Review – locking ‘binas

We take a look at the DMM Ceros and the Grivel Clepsydra S, a couple of the locking ‘binas available to the good climbers of Oz. TL:DR DMM Ceros – better action than all of the Arnie movies put together; likely as unkillable as a Landcruiser Troopie Grivel Clepsydra S – fun, small, surprisingly intuitive but not for everyone The holy trinity of route climbing is the rope, the harness and the locking ‘biner. A unified tryptic keeping you safe….

Blog – Public perception and misinformation

Right around the time that the ‘eight focus site’ bans were first declared by Parks Victoria I was driving into the Victoria Range. I had pulled over on the side of a dirt road, just off the Henty Highway in the shadow of Red Rocks. I was on the phone before I risked dropping out of reception when a dusty white ute rumbled to a stop. I was clearly on the phone but the driver looked at me waiting, clicking…

Feature – Suffering

Love climbing? Get your subscription to Vertical Life here. In ‘The Pain The Pain!’ Ben Buckland asks why climbers seek out and embrace suffering and maybe finds it consuming a humble can of Orangina A few years ago I got really lost on a route in Chamonix. It wasn’t meant to be an especially big day out, just ten or so moderate pitches (with a long traverse section in the middle, just enough to make retreating a bitch) on a summer afternoon. Somewhere high…

Interview – Tom O’Halloran Dangle Pigging

Love climbing? Get your subscription to Vertical Life here. In ‘Dance of the Dangle Pig’ we catch up with Tom O’Halloran who riffs about sending Schweinebaumeln – aka Dangle Pig, Oz’s other 35s, his diet and how to be a strong daddy Images: Kamil Sustiak 📸 ⭐️ You recently repeated Alex Megos’ Schweinebaumeln at Elphinstone, the second grade 35 to be established in Oz and until now unrepeated. Can you tell us about the route and the process of climbing it? The…

Nutrition – Intermittent fasting

Love climbing? Get your subscription to Vertical Life here. In ‘On. Off.’ Amanda Watts takes a scientific gander at whether intermittent fasting is bunkum or fair dinkum? Intermittent fasting – it’s a diet that gets people as excited as a climbing trip to their dream crag. It’s certainly a diet that promises potentially profound health benefits: weight loss, better metabolic health and longer life. But is it really the silver bullet proponents claim, and is it something that can work for climbers? When…

Grampians Access: New Maps from Parks Victoria

Love climbing? Get your subscription to Vertical Life here. Yesterday afternoon Parks Victoria (PV) released maps (see at bottom) showing the full extent of new Special Protection Areas (SPAs) in the Grampians National Park/Gariwerd. The newly outlined areas, combined with the already identified areas in the Victoria Range, are extensive and cover many of the best and most popular climbing areas in the Park. Technically climbing is not allowed in SPAs. In this new information from Parks Victoria there is no change to what…

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