Is the Killer Pillar killer or filler? A film review

I Gonzo on the Paradox of Popularity and is Fun Just for Losers? A review of the film Gripped: Climbing the Killer Pillar. Choose life. Choose to quit your job. Choose a panting romance at 1200 feet, choose expressive homogeneity, choose Extreme, choose a Patagonia puffer, choose putting on make up in your tent in the morning, choose a fetishised water-bottle, some scroggin and tattoos. Remember that time you told your mate that this crag was secret?  Yeah man, screw…

How to react to the closure of Taipan Wall?

VL’s Simon Madden reflects on the closure of Taipan and what the future may hold for climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians Feel terrible.Taipan is as much an idea as it is a place of climbing. A wall that dominates both the landscape and the mindscape. A towering, intimidating wall that burns orange in the afternoon, not just from the rays of the setting sun but also because millions of climbers project their dreams onto it. It is brilliantly illuminated by desire. It…

GWRN and the closure of Taipan Wall

In the wake of the closure of Taipan Wall – one of the best climbing cliffs in the world – and the much-loved Bundaleer, VL speaks to the Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network (GWRN) who have been working to build a dialogue with the Traditional Owners of Gariwerd. GWRN has been in the news due the recent Taipan and Bundaleer closures because GWRN representatives were invited along to the Taipan Wall cultural heritage assessment. For many climbers it may be the…

MAKING THE GRADE

Dean Scarff on bringing AI to climbing grades It’s some time in The Future; the bushfire smoke has cleared, you’re out of coronavirus lockdown and you’re psyched to finally climb outdoors again. Flicking through the guidebook you spot it; a climb that’s at your grade, and it’s even got two stars. The onsight awaits. Several hours later you’re thrutching up a section of the route that feels like it must be at least two grades harder than what the guidebook…

Route Names – Another Perspective

Dr. Teagan Westendorf writes about her call to change the obscene route names at crags in Nowra and elsewhere Trigger warning – violence/sexual assault/homophobia/racism Being a woman, I feel the violence and threat of route names referencing rape and violence against women. Routes like Rape Machine, Rape and Carnage, Violently Silence Me, Slut’s Have no Honour (and many other ‘slut’ references. Being a ‘slut’ implies that a woman has no worth, and so can be used at will by others…

Nowra Route Names

Rob LeBreton, one of the original developers of Nowra and co-author of the current guidebook, writes about the recent push to change offensive route names at the area. (Please note that none of Rob’s routes have been flagged as offensive.) I opened Instagram this afternoon (24/6/2020) to see dozens of posts calling for the offensive route names at Nowra to be changed. It’s not the first time it’s been called for but it circulates a lot more quickly in this…

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