How to react to the closure of Taipan Wall?

VL’s Simon Madden reflects on the closure of Taipan and what the future may hold for climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians Feel terrible.Taipan is as much an idea as it is a place of climbing. A wall that dominates both the landscape and the mindscape. A towering, intimidating wall that burns orange in the afternoon, not just from the rays of the setting sun but also because millions of climbers project their dreams onto it. It is brilliantly illuminated by desire. It…

MAKING THE GRADE

Dean Scarff on bringing AI to climbing grades It’s some time in The Future; the bushfire smoke has cleared, you’re out of coronavirus lockdown and you’re psyched to finally climb outdoors again. Flicking through the guidebook you spot it; a climb that’s at your grade, and it’s even got two stars. The onsight awaits. Several hours later you’re thrutching up a section of the route that feels like it must be at least two grades harder than what the guidebook…

Route Names – Another Perspective

Dr. Teagan Westendorf writes about her call to change the obscene route names at crags in Nowra and elsewhere Trigger warning – violence/sexual assault/homophobia/racism Being a woman, I feel the violence and threat of route names referencing rape and violence against women. Routes like Rape Machine, Rape and Carnage, Violently Silence Me, Slut’s Have no Honour (and many other ‘slut’ references. Being a ‘slut’ implies that a woman has no worth, and so can be used at will by others…

Nowra Route Names

Rob LeBreton, one of the original developers of Nowra and co-author of the current guidebook, writes about the recent push to change offensive route names at the area. (Please note that none of Rob’s routes have been flagged as offensive.) I opened Instagram this afternoon (24/6/2020) to see dozens of posts calling for the offensive route names at Nowra to be changed. It’s not the first time it’s been called for but it circulates a lot more quickly in this…

Meet the group making climbing safer (and not in the way you might think)

Climbing is supposed to be scary, but if you’re queer, trans or gender non-conforming, it can be terrifying. The ClimbingQTs Membership Launch Party at Northside Boulders. Riley Edwards For a first-time climber, walking into a gym can be bloody terrifying. Seeing people fall off walls, contort their bodies into impossible positions and hear people use words like ‘beta’ and ‘dyno’ can intimidate even the boldest newbie. But for some people, the idea of entering any sporting space induces anxiety. ‘The…

Reza Alipour – the only okay FitSpo

We are all but fish in a pond or in the sea. We are the product of our circumstances, we might imagine ourselves independently thinking, autonomous, conscious beings, but we are really just animated sacks of pressed sausage meat being guided around by the remote controls of our pasts. It is for this reason that I can’t really be that proud of me for hating banal motivational quotes and the cookie-cutter, you-can-do-it-ism of FitSpo – I was just born this…

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