Blog – A Moment in Time on the Dawn Wall

In the lead up to Tommy and Kevin’s shows in Australia, Dave Barnes has set a simulator of the dyno on ptch 16  (5.14c/34) at Rockit climbing gym in Hobart. To conjure the right level of psych for the move, and in ‘to-be-like-your-hero-think-like-your-hero’ tradition, here he waxes lyrical about the move and the moment. History has a way of drawing straight lines crookedly. Pitch 16 on The Dawn Wall is crowded with new climbing history and what follows focuses on…

What Impact are the Grampians/Gariwerd Bans Having?

A recent visit to the Grampians/Gariwerd got Ross Taylor wondering about the effect the climbing bans are having on visitation and local businesses. And with Mt Arapiles set to go through the same process at the Grampians, it is natural to fear what impact this may have on the town of Natimuk. A couple of weekends ago during the long weekend here in Victoria I pitched up to the Bleachers near Halls Gap. I arrived at 11am and was surprised to find the…

Tom’s Olympic Dream

The field of contenders for the coveted spots on the Australian Olympic climbing team is thickening, we have a quick chat with Tom O’Halloran who has recently declared his hand. We saw that you recently announced that you were planning to try and get an Olympic spot, why have you decided to make this a goal? I first saw the Olympics when I was eight years old and I watched the opening ceremony of the Sydney Olympics. I was blown…

Fixing Everest

Guy Cotter, the CEO of Adventure Consultants, reflects on the current state of affairs on the world’s highest – and seemingly busiest summit – Mt Everest The image of the crowds on the summit ridge was not good for the reputation of Everest or of mountaineering in general. I have fielded numerous media calls these last few days as people all over the world are wondering what is going on up there. The reality is that there are large groups…

Free Solo / (s)he solo

In ‘Free Solo//(s)He Solo’, Emily Rudling tracks the differences between her surfing and climbing experience and examines gender in the film Free Solo ‘I love the twinkling sound of a trad rack.’ ‘Same,’ replies Sinead. ‘It’s soothing.’ We’re at a local crag and Sinead’s teaching me how to lead sport climbs. It’s raining, and no one else is about, and we’re talking about all the things we love about the sport we met through. We look up at the route…

Getting Organised: a Sport Climbing Victoria proposal

Getting Organised: a Sport Climbing Victoria proposal – an open letter from Philip Goebel, president of Sport Climbing Victoria. With access issues in the Grampians front in mind within the Victorian climbing community, important questions have arisen about the governance of our sport and the community organisations with claims to represent climbers in Victoria. In fact, the access issues have highlighted our weakness in Victoria to get organised and present a coherent and unified voice to Grampians National Park stakeholders, in…

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