The Future of Climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians

Parks Victoria released its new draft management plan for Gariwerd/Grampians last year. We take a look at the draft from a climbing perspective. What does the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan mean for climbing? It vastly decreases the opportunities for roped climbing – particularly hard, quality climbing – and it basically eliminates bouldering.  We truly believe that the cultural and environmental values of the park need to be protected, because they are the very things that make us want to…

Editorial – On you, on me, ennui

I have taken for granted the pleasures of a tactile world: dragging my hands along a cold steel balustrade, cupping porcelain whilst drinking a coffee, skin torn by sandstone gripped too hard. Instead, I find myself shying away from everything like a vampire fleeing an upraised cross. Where is this place that we are? We are not where we were and we are not where we are going. When I wake up in the morning it feels like nowhere, off…

Editorial – No Longer Solo

When it comes to climbing in the Grampians, the Good Old Days are done. For instance, the classic route featured on our cover, Sandinista, is no longer legal to climb.

Editorial – Blinded

Editor’s note to issue 29 of Vertical Life. Subscribe to the issue here. Climbing can be such a liberating, simple thing. I had my eyes lasered in the hope I would be able to throw away my glasses. I was as blind as a mole, contacts didn’t work for my prescription. I had wanted to do it for a long time and then when I finally had the operation it was not a success – a ‘sub-optimal result’ was the doctor’s assessment. The…

Newness

Editor’s note to issue 27 of Vertical Life. Download the issue here. Climbing has always been about newness. We have been obsessed with who climbed the hardest thing and who got to the top first, both of which are just shades of newness. When we look back, it is exploration that’s the main thread running through the lore of climbing, and exploration by definition is about charting newness. You can see that from the early science-driven ascents that sought to map the world…

Injured

Editor’s note to issue 26 of Vertical Life. Download the issue here. There is a famous story about a young climber who developed scurvy when he was living at Araps in the ‘80s. It goes that he was scrounging what food he could when he was told by a Horsham doctor that he had scurvy, that disease of history books that killed millions of sailors during the age of exploration before people realised it was caused by vitamin C deficiency. It could be…

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