The Future of Climbing in Gariwerd/Grampians

Parks Victoria released its new draft management plan for Gariwerd/Grampians last year. We take a look at the draft from a climbing perspective. What does the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan mean for climbing? It vastly decreases the opportunities for roped climbing – particularly hard, quality climbing – and it basically eliminates bouldering.  We truly believe that the cultural and environmental values of the park need to be protected, because they are the very things that make us want to…

Victorian Peak Climbing Body? Have Your Say

Moves are afoot to initiate a climbing peak body in Victoria. Sport Climbing Victoria (SCV) in conjunction with Outdoors Victoria (OV), and with support from Sport & Recreation Victoria, has just released a draft report investigating the options for the form the peak body may take. We speak to Phil Goebel from Sport Climbing Victoria, and Andrew Knight and Chris Ali from Outdoors Victoria about the report and its recommendations, and how climbers can give their feedback. Why does Victoria…

Route Names – Another Perspective

Dr. Teagan Westendorf writes about her call to change the obscene route names at crags in Nowra and elsewhere Trigger warning – violence/sexual assault/homophobia/racism Being a woman, I feel the violence and threat of route names referencing rape and violence against women. Routes like Rape Machine, Rape and Carnage, Violently Silence Me, Slut’s Have no Honour (and many other ‘slut’ references. Being a ‘slut’ implies that a woman has no worth, and so can be used at will by others…

Nowra Route Names

Rob LeBreton, one of the original developers of Nowra and co-author of the current guidebook, writes about the recent push to change offensive route names at the area. (Please note that none of Rob’s routes have been flagged as offensive.) I opened Instagram this afternoon (24/6/2020) to see dozens of posts calling for the offensive route names at Nowra to be changed. It’s not the first time it’s been called for but it circulates a lot more quickly in this…

News – The ACAV Special General Meeting

Last night the Australian Climbing Association Victoria (ACAV) held a Special General Meeting (SGM) at Trinity Grammar to try and resolve its internal issues. Simon Madden was there to report on it. EDIT 38 December: We have received several requests for people to view and listen to recordings of the SGM, scroll to the bottom if you are that kind of person who wants to follow along at home. Mike Tomkins (Mike-T) is still the president of the ACAV. The…

News – John Middendorf on the logging of takayna/Tarkine

We speak to Tasmania’s John Middendorf, a long-time climber, climbing-gear designer and owner of D4, a portaledge manufacturer, about his activism in the old-growth forests of takayna/Tarkine, both in supporting the protests by helping out with gear and doing tree-sits himself. Can you tell us what is happening in takayna/Tarkine and in the Sumac Forest specifically, and why it is so important to protect the area? Currently 52 logging coupes – thousands of hectares of forest – are scheduled to be logged in…

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