Amanda Watts peers into your guts to see what’s happening to your FODMAPs WORDS: Amanda Watts, IMAGE: Simon Madden You can’t swing a chalk bag these days without hitting someone suffering with IBS (Irritable Bowel Syndrome). Bloating, gas, distension, abdominal discomfort and – weirdly – either diarrhoea or constipation (or even more weirdly a mix of both) are not the most fun reactions to have to food. I’m sure you can imagine how problematic tummy pain, bloating and lots of wind are…

Keep It Simple, Stupid

Climbers are constantly bombarded with new training ideas, but Duncan Brown reminds us that mostly getting stronger is not about the new, it’s about consistency WORDS: Duncan Brown, IMAGE: Simon Madden Put together a room full of climbers who train hard year after year and chances are that you will get a room full of different opinions about how to go about it. Add the wonderful Internet where every single day you will hear about new training methods, tools, ideas, plans,…

Is Gelatin the new SUPERFOOD?

Are horses’ hooves the next superfood? VL‘s nutritionist Amanda Watts looks at new research to see if gelatin can help us avoid injury. It always happens when you least expect it. One minute you’re on, crushing moves and a split second later you’re off, staring down the barrel of months of rehab and weekends on the couch, rather than at the cliff. For any of you who have heard that heart-dropping ‘pop’ of a ligament or pulley, you know what I’m talking…

Finding the Sweet Spot

  In the galaxy of food, is sugar on the side of darkness or light? Amanda Cossey takes her Lightsabre of Science to the subject. ‘Sugar is toxic.’ It has a sexy ring to it, doesn’t it? Much more appealing than ‘eat more veggies or less junk food.’ Sugar is the most recent component of our diet under fire – fat is back and sugar is out. The anti-sugar push is driven by the belief that obesity and the many…

Review – Athlete by Choice

It’s unusual to review a coaching service, but when VL’s resident training guru, Duncan Brown from Athlete by Choice offered us the chance to have a month’s coaching under his tutelage, we jumped at it. Under review – Athlete by Choice online climbing coaching with Duncan Brown, RRP $99 month Best for – Intermediate-advanced climbers who need extrinsic motivation and assistance to focus their training. Historically I have done a lot of flouncing in the name of training. As training this…

Video: Train for Climbing – Get Your Strong On

In this bonus web supplement to his training article published in VL edition one, Duncan Brown provides some focus and structure to enable you to channel the motivation to train smarter, get stronger and send harder. The following is a one-hour training session you can do at home with nothing but a hangboard, or at least a chin up bar and an edge to use for the endurance program. Not essential but helpful would also be a yoga mat, a…

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