Interview – Sam Healy

A couple of weeks ago Sydney denizen, Sam Healy, fought his way up one of Oz’s hardest and most iconic routes, Groove Train (33) on Taipan Wall in the Grampians. We have to admit we were a little surprised as we’ve always thought of Sam and his twin brother Liam as boulderers, but it turns out climbing routes is not that hard if you’re really, really ridiculously strong and all the moves feel easy. We spoke to Sam to find…

Blog – Not Safe

One of our readers reports on a worrying trend that could have disastrous consequences ‘SAFE!’ The call rings out across the climbing gym, and the dutiful belayer responds by lowering their climber – the one who just yelled ‘safe’ – to the ground. It’s not the first time I have heard it and every time I do I roll my eyes and shake my head. Each and every person who is taught to say this in the gym is putting their…

Video – Space Oddity (29) Coolum Cave

When winter is coming, it’s time for you to cast your eyes northward looking to catch a little mid-year sun. Get psyched as you watch this vid of The Mayor of Coolum, John J Obrien, hauling himself up the blocky brilliance of Space Oddity (29). Big love to Radest Productions for the camera work and for exposing us to the pure comfort of shooting off access gear.  

Save Yourself

SYS (Save Yo Self) Over the weekend at least two boulderers were rescued (one by helicopter) after falling off highball boulder problems in the Grampians. These accidents, plus a few others, have inspired us to remind you dear readers of something profound: bouldering is dangerous. In fact, in many ways bouldering is more dangerous than climbing on a rope, something we are not sure that most noobs understand. When you’re bouldering you’re always falling off and (unlike roped climbing) you’re…

Motivation (or am I still a climber?)

If motivation waxes and wanes then Ollie Kerr has two moons pulling on him – riding and climbing. Forgive me Father, for I have sinned. I didn’t mean to. Or at least, not at first. I meant to stay faithful – with all my heart and soul. I’ve been told the long distance thing is hard but I didn’t realise just how hard. Until I tried. The temptation was all around me. At first, I was fine. I didn’t even…

Photography – Kamil Sustiak’s night shot

Kamil Sustiak kicks off his new photography column with an explanation of how he captured Kerrin Gale climbing below a star-spangled sky Camera settings for the successful shot: Canon 5D MK III, 16-35 F2.8L, F3.2/20s, ISO 4000 Lights: Canon Speedlite 580ex remotely triggered with two PocketWizard TT5s and a headtorch attached to a human for light-painting the rear cave. ‘Three, two, one… now!!’ Doug gives slack and somewhere in the total darkness above us Kerrin dynos for an ‘invisible’ hold…

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